Days and Knights
It was only a matter of time before I found it. Dotted with palm trees, Chess Park sits on a choice piece of beachfront just south of the Santa Monica Pier. About fifty metal chess boards are inlaid in the park's wooden tables and there is even a giant concrete board on the ground. (Though the giant chess pieces are locked up tantalizingly nearby, I've never seen anyone play on it yet.) On a sunny weekend there can be over a dozen games being played at once, with numerous spectators as well.
The battles can be fast and fierce, especially when they are "blitz" games in which each player only has a total of five minutes to make all of his moves. Humorous trash-talking is quite common as opponents seek to unnerve or belittle one another. While the games are often fascinating, it is the players themselves who are the real entertainment. Here are a few that I've come to know the best.
Sitting tall in his wide straw hat, Duckworth is probably the best player overall. He plays his chess with quiet efficiency, but between games he can sometimes launch into political rants about the election primaries or debunking conspiracy theories.
Shoma is a very friendly and funny Russian immigrant. When he found out about my practice, he tried to give me twenty dollars. We've had a couple of interesting discussions on philosophy, spiced with his humorous insights. His daughter was tragically killed by lightning when she was only fourteen years old, so he's rather cynical about religion in general and God in particular.
Gentle Gene is a kind fellow that I often spar with. He also has a meditation practice and actually went to Japan with Alan Watts, who played a seminal role in the transmission of Buddhism (particularly Zen) from East to West. Gene gave me some Cho-Wa (Japanese for "harmony") herbal tea, which, according to its information, "...can raise and harmonize your 'Ki' (life force)...[bringing you] into harmony with your world." I tried it at the Zen Center and I did seem a little more focused during the meditation, but it's hard to tell with my erratic practice.
Wolf is an amazing story. He's Apache and has recently turned his life around. He was a drug-addicted alcoholic who spent four years in prison for assault and then became homeless when he got out. Now he's got a construction job, has his own place, has kicked all his addictions (except tobacco), and has an angel of a girlfriend. But he's still got a long way to go to "knock the rust off his chess game", as he puts it.
And then there are the other homeless guys like me. "Download" practically lives at the park, usually the first to arrive in the morning and the last to leave at night. (Heck, on reflection, he might actually live there after all.) He can be quite pedantic about almost any topic. This tendency is exacerbated by his fairly caustic outlook on life, especially after being injured a few weeks ago in a hit and run by someone driving a truck. I guess that might make me pretty abrasive too.
I originally met Charles at the homeless shelter. He's a bit hyperactive and quite loquacious, wise-cracking about anything and everything. He taught me the "beach bum" skill of how to unlock the bathrooms by reaching up under the door with a stick. I've found that the handle of my small broom does the trick nicely.
Ronald is a homeless illegal immigrant from El Salvador who's been living in the U.S. for many years. I sometimes refer to him as a bodhisattva because he's been so generous to me, sharing his food, his knowledge of the homeless life, and even his sleeping location out by the large sand rakes (pulled by tractors) out on the beach.
By far the biggest character (and the loudest) is Carl----or, to us mere mortals, the self-proclaimed "Great Carlini". Always wearing his signature pith helmet, the Great Carlini is a rather imposing fellow dishing out hilarious non-stop banter and a strong game to back up all the bluster. Sometimes, when he makes a good move, he will shout out nonsense words like "Hooshkababah!" And when he delivers the coup de grace he will sometimes start dancing in his seat and waving his arms about as he belts out a strange tune that is something of a theme song for him. He insists on playing for one dollar a game. Since I don't have any money, I ponied up a granola bar after he crushed me in a matter of minutes. At first, he turned up his nose at it, but he did eventually take it since he couldn't get anything else out of me.
One night I stayed up until 2am playing chess in a cafe with a couple of members of the Santa Monica Chess Club----a sweet older woman named Linda who thumped me twice and her somewhat manic younger friend Rob. He's an incredibly generous guy. Not only did he buy me a fruit smoothie that evening, but he got it into his head that we would go biking the next day.
So the next morning, after very little sleep and a zombie (zumbie?) session at the Zen Center, I met Rob at Chess Park. He rented me a bike and we headed off down the coastal bike path on a gorgeous day. It was a wonderful trip, but I didn't realize that he was serious about riding all the way to the Redondo Pier and back, a distance of about 30-35 miles in total.
He bought me a great dinner at El Torito restaurant on the Redondo Pier, but we had to hurry to get the rental bike back before the shop closed. By then, the temperature had dropped and the wind had picked up, so I was really struggling on the way back, especially since I was under-dressed in only shorts and a t-shirt. We finally pulled in five minutes late and I was so frozen and exhausted that my legs were all wobbly when I tried to walk. And the next morning I woke up in my alley battling a cold.
So of course we repeated the same trip the following weekend. But this time I dressed warmer and the journey was actually a piece of cake. (I lose so much energy when I'm cold.) And to top it all off, besides brunch at Panera and dinner at Subway, Rob is loaning me his second bike! So now I've been enjoying my new mobility, tooling all over Santa Monica and Venice in a fraction of the time it took me to walk everywhere. Woohoo!
A final note on the chess games. Unlike Washington Square Park in New York City, there are no drug addicts or hustlers playing for money (except for the Great Carlini's nominal fee), so I've been able to play quite a lot with a wide variety of opponents. Naturally, my chess game is improving as I learn interesting tactics and deeper strategies. Unfortunately, my chess practice has remained stagnant.
This is the psychological practice that I mentioned in my entry "Knights on the Square" in which I am attempting to free myself from the ego constriction around the issues of winning and losing. Chess games are a microcosm of the similar ego games regarding notions of winning and losing (success and failure, etc.) in the rest of my life too. I've been hoping that if I could "loosen up" at chess, then perhaps I could generalize the lesson to the the rest of my life as well.
But I still get swept away by the battle, swept away by my ego. Sometimes during the fray I'll have a vague memory that I'm supposed to be practicing something else besides queen's gambits or bishop sacrifices (how profane!), but the moment is inevitably swallowed up in the thrill of battle. So while I am starting to win more games of chess, I continue to lose the much bigger game of liberation. I'm still firmly in the thrall of my desire to win and my fear of losing----those two bad boys who never go anywhere without each other. (And yes, I realize the irony of wanting to win the "game of liberation" too. That may be the one I end up letting go of first.)
It's so hard to even remember to try to keep my ego in check when the other egomaniac across the table shouts "Shakababoom!" as he slaughters my poor defenseless knight.
"They write books about guys like me!"
"Why am I the only one allowed to make great moves?!"
"Gimme what I want and nobody gets hurt!"
"You are playing the Great Carlini. You are not expected to do well."
"Don't worry, this won't hurt for long."
"This, to me?! You've got a lot of nerve, chess player!"
"If I play any better, I could scare myself."
"A monk?! Don't tell me he's a monk! And don't tell me he doesn't have any money!"
---The Great Carlini
"My only problem is that I don't have any problems. Maybe I'm Buddhist after all."
"Only a stone should be alone." (Jewish proverb)
"Everybody has problems. In Russia we just buy a bottle of vodka and tell our friends that my wife is a whore or my boss is a pest. But here in America everyone is too busy, so you have to pay a psychiatrist to listen to you."
---Shoma
"My spiritual path is the path of least resistance."
---Wolf

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